Arrival at last!

Our journey up from Phnom Penh was in the (luxurious) VSO pick-up with our accompanying goods and chattels. As always it proved to be eventful and a little scary. Rith (a very nice man) who is our VSO office contact in Phnom Penh for all matters educational, drove the pick-up. Poor lad had never before experienced such road conditions much vaunted and described by other Mondulkiri volunteers (others think these are over exaggerated ‘jungle’ myths and smile with that polite ‘oh really’ but I don’t believe you look). So, as we ventured deeper into the jungle the ‘dirt’, or should I say mud, road/track became worse. It then began to rain to make conditions even more interesting! To elucidate …. we were exposed to very deep ruts, half way up the pick-up doors, and terrain with gradients ranging from 15-50% (I kid you not!) on a ‘Teflon’ surface. We were all apprehensive of our chances particularly as in another hour it would be dusk! We even passed ‘local’ experienced drivers stuck ‘off road’. So, we were delighted and much relieved that Rith managed to conquer the white knuckle ride adventure and we eventually escaped the jungle clutches in just enough daylight to enjoy the reward of the wonderful vista that awaits as you approach Sen Monorom. We have obviously described our tale of terror to anyone who would listen only to feel somewhat whimpish as we were told of some drivers, of huge eight wheel lorries, (apparently) who get so embedded in the beloved ‘red goo’ that the owners pay them to stay with the truck and, already sold, goods, ‘camping’ until they can be extricated which can take weeks or even a few months (what they do for toilet facilities one is at a loss!).

After a few days at work we were able move into the house where we will be living until next August. It is a typical Cambodian wooden structure built on stilts so you have to do quite a bit of daily climbing. It is quite strange to wander around and a) feel the furniture move (no, not the earth!) and see the ground below between the planks. The house belongs to a Swedish couple who work for another NGO (non Government Organisation) here but who have returned to Sweden to have their second baby. So we basically are house sitting in a very comfortable home by local standards for a reasonable rent (well within VSO allowance anyway). It has 3 double bedrooms although one is used as an office. There is a living area, kitchen with bathroom off and on the way to the veranda, there is a dining area partly open to the outside. Throughout, there is bamboo/ rattan furniture which adds to the ethnic feel. Many locals have incredibly heavy teak furniture, designed for the future American / UK obesity markets, which we find impossible to move about easily and I would worry about it collapsing through the floor.

They are a very eco friendly couple, so there is some electricity generated by wind power and solar energy is used to heat the water – obviously variable, but usually warm enough to have a reasonable ‘shower’. The latter is an exercise is pouring large cups of water (also used in many places here to flush the toilet) over you while you try to soap and shampoo yourself. I haven’t had a bath in nearly 2 months – one of the things I miss most. We can use recycled water from the bathroom sink to flush the loo but water is hardly in short supply after the rainy season! They also have a compost heap – unheard of here.
The veranda is magnificent – quite big with room for a hammock which Keith has just been sampling the delights of. The view is lovely – rolling hills and few houses. Most evenings so far, we have watched fabulous lightning displays and various fauna including a pair of hoopoes, golden orioles, a buzzard and the hatching and flight of thousands of winged creatures (not sure of the name) from the garden (we now know why the hoopoes were interested – lots of free food).
Some of the extra/different household activities we have to do are:
-Feed the cat called Zacky
-Feed the fish – in an open pot which the cat drinks out of
-Brush the wooden steps to remove termite tunnels
-Bake own bread – only way to get a loaf and in the house is the only gas STOVE in Cambodia, the way people go on about it!
-Get up at 6.15 to be at work for 7.30 or earlier if we have to travel anywhere. Locals generally go to sleep before 9 pm.
-Tuck in mosquito nets and wear ‘Eau de Deet’ as my regular perfume
-Keep all foodstuffs/perishables in sealed containers so the insects, mice or worse can’t get at them
-Spray my tiny orchid collection (2 bought for $3 in PP) which are suspended on wires from the main beam of the veranda
-Replenish the ice box every 2 days – no fridge so Keith goes off on the motorbike to buy a large block and has to rush back

GREAT NEWS we now have electricity, the Japanese HEP project is complete and Sen Monorom is hooked up just for our arrival! We are delighted as you might imagine the prospect of cooking by torch / candlelight, whilst may seem romantic, was something we were not relishing. The outgoing volunteers must be pig sick but I suppose there is no stopping progress! There might even be decent roads next……
Hope this gives you another ‘flavour’ of our current lifestyle.